Out of the Mountains

ABANDON HOPE ALL YE WHO ENTER HERE. Or did the sign say “Welcome to Spokane”? It didn’t matter. After a month of avoiding cities of any kind I suddenly found myself in a 31’ motor home trying to maneuver the city streets of Spokane in cold rain and late afternoon traffic. Suddenly there was the ugliness that makes cities such places of hell for me. Every corner had gangs of people just hanging about looking either predatory or hopeless. The trash spilling over curbs and alleys; the traffic and noise; the visual blowout of billboards, signs, directions, advertising until the eye assault starts the brain Novocain just to cope. I’m surprised that there are not bodies in the streets of people who just gave up under the horror and simply up and died where they were standing.
I was very glad to get through the short distance we traveled through Idaho. Coeur d’Alene--a town I had looked forward to seeing--struck a sort of preternatural horror in me. The steep-forested sides of the Rockies were dark and cloud-covered. We had rain and some snow at the higher mountain passes. Forests are nearly as frightening as cities. The green was a dark green, a menacing green that challenged light. And if I strained to peer behind the front row of trees next to the highway all I could make out was more trees in continually darkening rows. The canyon walls got so high and so close together--it felt as if we were going to be swallowed by some huge set of jaws with many-faceted rows of pine trees for teeth. Then, suddenly--there it was. A huge lake. On both sides of the highway. Dark, deep endless water with wind-whipped whitecaps lapping at the road. Now the life-squeezing claustrophobia of the woods and clouds was supplemented by huge bodies of water on all sides. As if breathing weren’t hard enough already from the new pneumonia, this was too much. Grab the inhaler! Puff, inhale and hold! Do it again!!! And from this trauma we emerged into the morass of Spokane. No, it was not a good day.
We drove an additional three hours just to avoid having to backtrack through our mistakes in going through Spokane. We drove on roads that were nothing more than farm roads. We drove through places where the towns didn’t exist anymore! The clouds did start to break up. Eventually even the wretched forest disappeared. Then finally we were able to say we were out in the open! The sun was shining. Wheat was being harvested by kindly-looking old men on big tractors. It was finally safe to stop and approach the natives and find out where we were.
We stopped in a small town called Creston. We saw all these Rvs parked in an open field and centered around a log cabin building with a small bell. We thought it was an RV park and we were ready to end the day. The sign that greeted us said MATTHEW 6:33. Hmmmmm--odd sort of KOA. It turns out it was the GOSPEL COWBOY RV CAMP--ALL WELCOME. The same people have been having this camp for 22 years. People come in their Rvs, bring their horses and enjoy great rides mixed with Bible study and Cowboy Church. We were welcomed to attend during the next 3 days. As much as I was ready to chuck everything over in favor of staying, we knew we had obligations to meet in central Washington and no time to participate. That would have been one gathering I know I would never have forgotten.
We finally did find a place to spend the night just south of Coulee. The RV camp is called Sun Lakes State Park and RV Resort and it’s wonderful. It’s like being back on the desert only we’re down in a steep-walled canyon--a minature Grand Canyon-- with a wonderful reservoir, golf course, parks, great camping sites and peace and quiet. The sun is warm and benevolent, the sky is blue and it is easier to breathe free again. The trees are placed at non-threatening, decent intervals to provide shade and not terror. Byrdie has enjoyed a great swim and we are using the day to rest, do laundry and heal. Tomorrow we meet more family in Ellensburg, Washington.

Viruses are Evil

Revised plans: all side trips are off and we are trying to make the best time we can to Washington State. I have been very ill and the vicious microbe got me KOed for awhile. Finally ended up in the ER of Bismarck, North Dakota. It's the only part of the state I remember. Wonderful Dr. Bathurst!!! In only a few hours I was seen, tested, advised and sent on my way. The little mycobacteriumaviumintercellulareandalsowithyouAmen has a new friend--some loathesome viral infection--where else but in the lungs--aka, viral pneumonia. At least there was some sinister spot on x-ray. No more drugs to take for that so was sent on way with meds for motion sickness, etc. Under other circumstances, instructions to DO NOTHING would have been met with glee--but not now. At any rate, I'm a tad better today and was able to resume driving--a tad like Captain Kirk taking the helm of the Enterprise and telling Scotty to kick it in the slats!

deer, not antelope, and they are not playing

No Yellowstone, no Spearfish--just roll on into Washington. But what a state Montana is! I think I'm in love! The sky is everywhere and the openness is not like the unnerving prairie but a grand statement of BIGNESS. For the first time since starting this trip four weeks ago today, I almost hear the land saying, "Come here, you. Of all the gin joints in all the world, you finally picked a good one!" Even though it's cloudy and rainy Montana has made a connection with my soul.

Old and new houses

lone antelope and he's not playing either. The huge herds of antelope are beautiful to see.

Byrdie riding in RV








We're staying in Big Timber, Montana, tonight at the Spring Creek Campground on the Boulder River. It is spectacular! Last night was in Glendive, Montana--sounds like something that goes in a salad. It was also a wonderful campground. We've been very fortunate in having such good campground experiences. Tonight we're backed right up to the river and the sound is wonderful. I can also hear distant thunder. I wish we could stay a few days in this beautiful place.

Turning Back from the Far East

September 15, 2007

We left Wisconsin early afternoon today only this time Mr. Toccata is along for the ride. I'm used to driving along, chatting to Byrdie, and am startled to hear an answer occasionally to my musings. Byrdie has adapted fairly quickly to being displaced from the co-pilot's seat.

Three quick observations: First, the cold. I don't like it. I don't like one thing about it. I had to go into town to get a jacket. Since the 2nd hand store was closed for renovation, I actually had to go to a real store and pay full price. Of course I mean the WalMart. I was shocked! They wanted $46.00 for a made in China plasticky-type coat with fake fur that would only tickle my nose and smell if it got wet. No way that's going down. So I booked it over to the "Men's Department" and found a sale on jackets for only twenty bucks--it's fire-engine red--but more than adequate. There was a frost this morning--that means the ground was white and it scrunched when you walked on the grass. Time to head to warmer climes for sure!

The second encounter is of the gross type. We stopped to put gas in the RV. It was a normal stop until these two small hatchback station wagons(?) pulled in next to us. All four doors on each vehicle immediately flew open and approximately 6-8 young girls popped out. These girls were not wanting for lack of nourishment. They were shoving chocolate bars into their mouths. They made for the back of each vehicle and opened up the back lift doors. The vehicles were filled with caged rabbits!! As soon as they opened up the back doors, the smell of many rabbits just permeated the air around the gas pumps. I had no idea rabbits could stink so much! Then the mother got out of one of the vehicles--she was at the same pump as I was only on the other side. She went to remove her gas cap and at the same time let out this quite sustained belch--as if it were the most common sound to produce before pumping gas! Oh well--just a little vignette of a window into a simple stop for fuel.

By now I have forgotten what the third observation was that I wanted to make! Not all the bikers descending on Tomahawk, Wisconsin, to celebrate Harleys on the same day Harley Davidson announced they were closing three Wisconsin plants; not the sadness at leaving the beauty of Wisconsin; Not the beauty of St Croix River and the little town on its banks. Not the drag of being back in the corn fields of Minnesota.

It's good to be on the road again. I like it. We're at an RV park that has been taken over by some sort of rally activity. I hear the sound of bottles hitting metal trash cans and the obbligato bonfire has been lit. I must ask someone about this bonfire fixation. I keep expecting the air quality police to raid the place at any minute.

I remembered the third thing--ticks are really disgusting! Poor Byrdie is a four-legged TAC--Tick Attraction Unit! Thank you Cousin Mike for getting the worst ones off her but I had to do tick duty this evening here in St. Cloud. And that brings up another question--who is St. Cloud? Here is the St. Croix River that we crossed--very small bridge and not too high. It was here that I saw the first grafitti I've seen in three weeks. It was an even more vivid reminder of how clean and orderly this part of the country is. I will miss the cleanliness and local pride most of all. How can such a beautiful state as California tolerate people living and acting like pigs? Why do the rest of us allow it? My suggestion for a first step? Quit calling defacing property "tagging" as if it were a cute children's prank. It isn't. It's vandalism plain and simple. And then make the little pukes clean it up--totally! There is absolutely no reason for a community to tolerate dirt, grafitti or meandering groups of threatening males. Period.

Our plans are to head into North Dakota and see some of the country around Bismarck and then back into Spearfish. Since Mr. Toccata is responsible for the navigation I don't actually know where we're going. I believe Yellowstone and Montana and Jackson Hole are somewhere on the agenda.

More later when we hit the next reliable internet connection.

Hey! It's Technically Still Summer!!!

Sept. 14, 2007
Illusions about living outside of California are dropping as rapidly as the leaves off the trees here in the Big Woods. Just because we had some days in Bakersfield that were 116o whatever could have made me think that cold weather would be nice? It’s not nice!! It’s--it’s--what is the word? It’s COLD. Cold makes one want to stay under the covers; cold makes my knees hurt; cold means you needs lots of blankets and lots of clothes!
Before leaving California, almost as an afterthought, I threw in my heaviest coat--the one with the hood I bought six years ago for the Alaska cruise--plus a pair of gloves, a sweater, one long-sleeved shirt, a few pairs of socks and a hat. I thought I might need such things if our trip went into October and we were somewhere that has “cold.” I have worn all those things so far--and mostly all at the same time!! It’s still not enough clothing. The surprising thing is seeing so many children here still running around without so much as a sweater. Don’t their mothers know how cold out it is? Why are these wee ones even allowed outside when it is only 45o? I’m very thankful I brought an electric blanket along--plus a heating pad for “just in case.”
Another odd weather event is making me rethink this type of climate. When it got so dang cold it also got windy and rainy. Not just overcast--real rain! It had thunder and lightning thrown in as well just in case somebody tried to ignore the buckets of water added to the systemic cold shock. I always thought of rain as something that smelled good and cleaned the dust out of the air. This rain only smells wet and forget about walking in it to cool off. You’d be a human icicle if you got wet and stayed outdoors!
I had to visit the medical clinic here for a meds check. (I have to put in a plug for the Marshfield Clinic system in Wisconsin--it’s fantastic! Wisconsin has the eighth best healthcare system in the nation.) I suppose the doctor noticed how bundled up I was because we got to talking about our search for the ideal retirement place. His quick assessment was brief and to the point: winters here are brutal--you’d never make it. Have you thought about Oahu? That just might be the best advice I’ve ever gotten at a doctor’s visit!

On Wisconsin!

Sept. 10, 2007
We’re gathered--possibly for the last time--at the Little House in the Big Woods. Even though my father-in-law died last January his presence is still perceptible around the cabin. But his absence is even larger. At any given time there are at least 10-25 people here. The front of the property has a travel trailer, our RV and a 5th wheel. Cars, lawnchairs, tables and toys are everywhere and it’s the funny madhouse when large families gather.

I looked at the newest generation of younguns all running around and realized they would never experience this. Their parents have chosen to only have one or two kids. No matter how hard they try they will not have the experience of being with so many generations that no one can really separate it all out. They won’t know what it means to be in a room so crowded with people of all ages that everyone is just called cousin even though some are aunts and uncles, great grandkids, half-siblings, etc. The generations are all overlapped. It seems most of the relatives my age come from families where there are at least 4-7 siblings. And their parents were from even larger families than that! But, to be honest, I haven’t seen that being from a large family means you are from a happier family. All I can really observe is that when everyone gathers, people appear to be happy at the time. But I wouldn’t be meeting so many “exes” and “half*.*s” if folks had been all that content all the time!

Mr. Toccata lost two members of his family within two weeks. Two brothers of the original seven siblings died within two weeks of each other. The first service was for my husband’s uncle. There was a funeral mass conducted by an excellent priest. Very few members of the family believe in anything so it was the gathering of his church family that provided the spiritual support. The priest spoke of hope and faith and the certainty of eternal life. To me the liturgy reinforced meaning to a simple live that was lived extremely well. The memorial tomorrow will be in pretty strong contrast. The grief of my FIL’s children is as valid but they believe nothing--as did my FIL. I dwell on why even have a service. What’s the point if the deceased believed in nothing and the children believe in nothing--what is there to commemorate but horrid nothingness? Better to head to the local tavern and just get drunk. And exactly to whom will the words that will be spoken be addressed? Perhaps people believe more than they will ever admit.

Computer time at the public library here is limited so I’d better try and post while I can. Pictures still are not possible which is too bad since the land is beautiful. California seems very far away right now but I have also lost track of days and dates.
Health update: I have a few good days now. Perhaps the meds will actually help!

Mind Meanderings while on semi-auto-pilot

September 7, 2007

Driving 5o mph on country roads with no radio reception certainly allows the brain to follow some unexpected meanderings. Even though I’ve been on the road over two weeks I’m still glad I didn’t fly.

Great bar on Madeleine Island--Pete's Burned Down Again Bar.

Rantings:

I’ve pretty much had it with airports and the stupidity that is the driving force behind them. Until profiling is rigidly utilized I’m just not walking on their dirty floors in my bare feet or having some pimply-faced, dull-eyed lackey touch me or wand me. I am not the problem!!! The problem is any man wearing any head covering that is not either a Stetson or baseball cap!!! There’s your first tip-off. Another problem is any woman dressed so you can’t see her face or hair. After those 2 categories are implemented, then the profiling proceeds to anyone who is Moslem with the largest subset being Moslem young male. I simply don’t want to fly with these risks. Oh my! Oh Gasp! How un-PC! Well ain’t that a whole lot of too bad???
Tugboat

More Rantings:
I also think Saudi Airlines shouldn’t be allowed to land at any American airport until they remove their ban on bringing onto their planes any Bible, Cross or anything that symbolizes Christian or Jewish adherence. I’m not making this up! Look up Saudi Airlines on the Web and read their advertising blurb--it’s right there.

Pink house in Bayfield.

Even more rantings:

I found myself wondering if anyone else is as puzzled as I am why so many things happening in this country these days make no sense? A news item on the radio said that the governor of Wisconsin has vetoed a bill requiring photo ID to vote. Why would anyone veto something so logical??? I have had to show a photo ID just to camp at every place the last two weeks. Over 90% of the people in Wisconsin want this bill approved and yet it gets vetoed three times! What is his rationale??? Oh yeah--if someone can’t afford a photo ID (they cost money???) the government would pay for it!! And it still gets vetoed. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to know that is screwy.
As my brain wandered down more “huh” topics I got to thinking about our open borders. Why is there such a vocal powerful group who keep saying we can’t seal the borders or do anything about all the illegals in the country? Why can’t we do something about it? The first thing I would do if tax all money being sent out to Mexico--and I’d tax it at 50%. And all the people in court for driving without a license--in fact, anybody who goes through the court system and isn’t a citizen--should be sent back to their country of origin. Why is this a difficult thing? Why are we paying the prison bill for non-citizens? Makes no sense.

Enough rantings. I'll give Google a chance to post some pretty shots.

Bayfield Wisconsin

Sept. 6, 2007
Every once in awhile one is the recipient of a near-perfect day. We had that today. Right now I’m in the Apostle Islands Area Campground in Bayfield, Wisconsin. This is a storybook little town of 600 people on Lake Superior. The houses are turn-of-the-century, flowers everywhere, hilly streets, charming buildings and shops and all set against the Lake outlined by tall masts of sailboats docked in the harbor that today just sparkled in the bright sunshine. Walt Disney could not have done “Sea Harbor VillageLand” any better!
The first order of the day was to find out where the three cafes were in town that offered free internet. In our meanderings through Bayfield we came upon a 1903 Carnegie library. What do public libraries have?? INTERNET!! Unfortunately, the sign said closed. But the grounds were so inviting that we parked to get a few pictures. As tourists do, we struck up a conversation with another visitor and discovered that the internet was available after hours. Indeed, a picnic table next to the library itself was being used as an internet corner. With whoops, Mr. T. and I grabbed our laptops and pretty soon there were four happy tourists madly signing on with servers, checking emails, sending pictures to families and even getting some real work done. It was one of the most charming “connections” of the trip. When I think of the places that lied about having internet and the frustration of being disappointed and then to suddenly have bandwidth from heaven struck us a very funny.
A hefty breakfast/lunch followed at The Egg Toss (across the street from A Stone’s Throw) followed by taking the cars on the ferry over to Madeleine Island. Byrdie got to wear herself out fetching the ball from the Lake--she never tires of swimming and bringing back the ball. The Island is beautiful but it was hard to imagine living there during the winter--and yet 220 people do. I found it alarming that the children go to school over in Bayfield on the ferry, then by WINDSLED the 2.5 miles until the ice freezes hard enough for the cars to DRIVE ON THE ICE over to the mainland!!!! I simply can’t imagine allowing one’s children to go on ice of any thickness--no way, no how, via a windsled. Home schooling would look very good. And yet over in Knife River in Minnesota they also mentioned that the ice gets thick enough to drive on! This is fodder for nightmares in my book.
It has been so wonderful to be in small-town America where there seem to be so many amenities for the locals. The streets and empty lots are free from trash; there is no graffiti; English is spoken everywhere; people look you in the eye and a person feels that perhaps one has stumbled through a time portal back into an America I was beginning to think had never existed. The thought of what California has become makes me shudder. How is it that there is enough money in the last 5 states I’ve been in to have the nice civic buildings, good streets, public services that work and ordinary people taking care of themselves? California is one of the prime economies in the world and yet we live like pigs. Our cities are ugly, dirty, littered, filled with way too many folk that make you grab your pocketbook tightly to your chest. Which is the real world? Is it only an illusion of being safe here in this beautiful state? Or is reality the relentless waves of have-nots, do-nots, what-nots? I can’t figure it out. I can only conclude that California spends its wealth where there is no return.